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Update 03_Fashion_costume_terminology_en.md
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The etymology of the word *fashion* is still subject to different interpretations today: The derivation from the Latin *Modus*, which changed into *mode* in the French language, is disputed. It is possible that two forms of usage prevailed at the end of the 16th century: the masculine grammatical form *mode* in the sense of moderation, rule and modus, and the grammatically feminine form of *mode*, which stood for contemporary clothing and lifestyle. In its further dissemination in Germany and Italy, it initially finds application in the *Alamodische Bilderbogen*, a courtly entertainment literature that became widespread in Germany after the Thirty Years' War. It is also mentioned around 1620 with the meaning "the custom and dress originating in France". This longing for the fashionable was caricatured in *[Alamodische Blätter](set/48313)*[^Cf. Ridikül! 2003, Wolter 2002 and Wolter 2012.]. Subsequently, the word *fashion* became naturalised as the concept of the new and of instantaneous taste.

## Regional dress
The dictionary by Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm describes the meaning of *[regional costume](http://www.woerterbuchnetz.de/DWB?lemma=tracht)* (dt. Tracht) as "to wear or to be worn". The term regional costume (*Tracht*) was first used in 1497 to describe that which is worn on the body and also the way in which it is worn. The term denotes the clothing of the urban and rural population, as well as the garment worn at work as well as the garments in different professions.[^Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm's definition is far-reaching: it also stands for clerical clothing and distinguishes itself from the term *uniform*, a loan word which has been attested since 1746. Tracht also denotes the distinctive clothing of the different classes. Similarly, Tracht stands for mask and masquerade costume. Finally, the dictionary entry notes that Tracht and Fashion are used synonymously. The entry distinguishes between 'the type of dress in general without the element of the contemporary' and the 'zeitgemäsze kleidungsart, Mode, also tracht heiszt die dem frauenzimmer nach einer jedem Landesart gewöhnliche und übliche mode sich einkleiden und anzuputzt'. En: 'the mode of dress in general without the moment of the contemporary' and the 'contemporary mode of dress, fashion, cf. tracht means the usual and customary fashion for women to dress according to each national style'. In a figurative sense, it also denotes the attitude, the habitus.]
The dictionary by Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm describes the meaning of *[regional costume](http://www.woerterbuchnetz.de/DWB?lemma=tracht)* (dt. Tracht) as "to wear or to be worn". The term regional costume (*Tracht*) was first used in 1497 to describe that which is worn on the body and also the way in which it is worn. The term denotes the clothing of the urban and rural population, as well as the garment worn at work as well as the garments in different professions.[^Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm's definition is far-reaching: it also stands for clerical clothing and distinguishes itself from the term *uniform*, a loan word which has been attested since 1746. Tracht also denotes the distinctive clothing of the different classes. Similarly, Tracht stands for mask and masquerade costume. Finally, the dictionary entry notes that Tracht and Fashion are used synonymously. The entry distinguishes between „die kleidungsart allgemein ohne das Moment des zeitgemäszen“ and "zeitgemäsze kleidungsart, Mode, also tracht heiszt die dem frauenzimmer nach einer jedem Landesart gewöhnliche und übliche mode sich einkleiden und anzuputzt" - "the type of dress in general without the moment of the contemporary" and the "contemporary mode of dress, fashion, cf. tracht means the usual and customary fashion for women to dress according to each national style". In a figurative sense, it also denotes the attitude, the habitus.]

## *Costume research* in the 19th century
Thus, the term *Tracht* in the 19th century connotes the concept of nation and nation-building. The search for a national cultural identity can also be seen in Franz von Lipperheide's publishing project *[Blätter für Kostümkunde](item/17794)*. The *Blätter für Kostümkunde* show equal parts [historical clothing](set/48545) as well as [traditional costumes of specific epochs and regions](set/48544). In Franz von Lipperheide's usage, *fashion costume* (dt. Modekostüm) is also described as *Tracht der Vergangenheit* (costume of the past). The term *folk costume* (dt. Volkstracht) includes both fashionable phenomena and the regionally diverse traditional dress. The term *Trachten der Vergangenheit* (costumes of the past), on the other hand, includes historical dress and the dress specific to regions, the Volkstrachten (folk costumes).
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